Onsen Trip: Beppu, Oita — The Umi Jigoku Hell Circuit and Local Hot-Spring-Town Food

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Hello. In December 2024, our family took a 2-night, 3-day onsen (hot spring) trip to Beppu, in Oita Prefecture. The first night we feasted on a fresh sashimi boat platter, the next day we explored Beppu's famous "hell circuit" at Umi Jigoku, and in the evening we strolled through the town's lively dining district. On our last morning, we had breakfast at a restaurant high above the city with sweeping views. Every photo here is my own.

What you'll find here

A fresh sashimi boat platter on our first night
Beppu's hell-circuit sightseeing spot "Umi Jigoku" (its cobalt-blue main pond, the fiery-red "Chiike Jigoku," and the vermillion torii gates of "Hakuryu Inari Okami")
Relaxed, family-friendly downtime at a traditional Japanese-style inn
A breakfast in yukata at a high-rise restaurant overlooking the city

1. Our first night: a fresh sashimi boat platter

On our first night in Beppu, we had a fresh sashimi boat platter (funamori) at a local restaurant, featuring Oita's famous Seki-saba (brand mackerel) and Seki-aji (brand horse mackerel) — fresh enough that the fish's tail fin was still twitching. Everyone in the family kept reaching for more.

The kids were completely at ease during dinner, showing each other things on their phones and flashing peace signs. It was a lively, happy first-night dinner.

💡 Tip with kids: freshness is everything with sashimi boats, so booking one for your first night helps kick the trip off on a high note.

2. A relaxed morning at our Japanese-style inn

The next morning, at Shirogiku Hotel where we stayed, our child lounged in the futon in our spacious tatami room — a quiet, unhurried moment with morning light filtering through the shoji screens. The hotel's onsen was truly lovely, too, a wonderful way to unwind after a day of adventures.

*Our child relaxing in the futon in our tatami room*

💡 Tip with kids: Japanese-style rooms with futons laid out let kids move freely, which is a real plus when traveling with children.

3. Exploring Beppu's hell circuit: Umi Jigoku

📍 Umi Jigoku (the “sea hell”) — 559-1 Kannawa, Beppu, Oita / +81 977-66-0121 / 8:00–17:00, open year-round / ¥450 adults, ¥200 school children / the foot bath is free with entry / official site

The highlight of the day was Beppu's iconic sightseeing attraction, the "hell circuit" (jigoku meguri). We visited "Umi Jigoku" ("Sea Hell"), a nationally designated site famous for its striking cobalt-blue hot spring pond.

*The cobalt-blue hot spring at Umi Jigoku*

Within the same grounds is "Chiike Jigoku" ("Blood Pond Hell"), known for its vivid red color — we all stood mesmerized by the contrast of billowing steam against the reddish-brown water.

*The reddish-brown surface of Chiike Jigoku*

Further in, we came across "Hakuryu Inari Okami," a row of vermillion torii gates. Seeing the red gates emerge through the steam was a sight unique to this spot.

*The family taking in the vermillion torii gates at Hakuryu Inari Okami*

💡 Tip with kids: some areas of the hell circuit can get slippery from the steam, so wear shoes with good grip.

4. Strolling the gardens on the grounds

The Umi Jigoku grounds also include a lush, palm-lined garden, and we enjoyed a relaxed stroll between hell sightings.

The three of us walked through the garden together, stopping for a peace-sign photo. Even in December, the greenery gave the place a tropical feel.

💡 Tip with kids: since the hell circuit spans several separate sites, a combination ticket is a good way to visit more of them affordably.

5. An evening stroll through the hot-spring-town dining district

By evening, the neon signs and paper lanterns gave the streets that classic Beppu hot-spring-town glow. We strolled past a row of yakiniku and horumon (grilled offal) restaurants as a family.

*A dining district lit up with lanterns at night*

💡 Tip with kids: hot spring towns usually have one obvious dining district, so it's worth asking your inn's staff which street they'd recommend.

6. A high-rise breakfast overlooking the city on our last morning

On our final morning, we had breakfast at a restaurant high above Beppu with sweeping views of the city — still in our yukata robes, which made for a relaxed, unhurried way to end the trip.

*Our child enjoying dessert with Beppu's cityscape in the background*

💡 Tip with kids: the view from up high is especially clear in the crisp morning air, so a breakfast visit is worth it.

7. Honest Q&A for families (Beppu)

Q. Is Umi Jigoku easy to visit with kids? A. The grounds have paved, well-maintained paths that felt stroller-friendly. With a garden area alongside the hot springs, there's more to enjoy than just the sightseeing pools.

Q. How long does the hell circuit take? A. Just Umi Jigoku alone — the main pond, Chiike Jigoku, the garden, and Hakuryu Inari Okami — took us about an hour to see properly.

Q. Is Beppu cold in December? A. Daytime was comfortable in the sun, but the hell-circuit area felt slightly humid from the steam, so a light jacket helps.

8. When to go & what to wear (Beppu in December)

Our visit in late December brought some sunny, comfortable days, though mornings and evenings were cold (impressions only; always check the latest forecast before you travel).

Daytime: comfortable when sunny — a light jacket is handy
Hell circuit: steam can leave the ground slightly damp, so shoes with good grip help
Mornings/evenings: cold enough that a proper jacket is essential

9. A rough budget & official sites (please verify)

Just an example (amounts vary — always confirm on the official site).

Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) (official sites: umijigoku.co.jp / Beppu Hells: beppu-jigoku.com): admission is roughly ¥500 for adults as a guide (a combination ticket is a good value if visiting multiple hells)
Sashimi boat dinner: varies by restaurant, typically a few thousand yen and up
Onsen inn stay: varies by season and room type

10. Practical notes (transport, packing)

Getting around: the hell circuit sites are typically visited on foot combined with a car or taxi between them
Footwear: some areas get slippery from steam, so wear shoes with good grip
Cold weather: mornings and evenings are cold, so bring a proper jacket
Combination tickets: worth buying if you plan to visit more than one hell

📌 Last updated: July 2026. Prices, facility details, and operations change. Please reconfirm on official sites and current info just before you go.

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All photos were taken by me in December 2024. Prices, hours, and facility details change, so please confirm on official sites or on-site before you go.

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